Friday, December 31, 2010
Monday, December 27, 2010
Merry Christmas All
First of all---we are enjoying a wonderful Christmas in Colorado Springs with Paul and Kristin, Anna, Asher and Elli, sister Nancy and Paul's sister Julie. Aside from being a bit "under the weather"--I think it was my very first bout ever with altitude sickness---it has been a truly wonderful time. The grandkids are more fun than you can imagine. Christmas morning was a delight--three incredibly excited kids--and stuff everywhere--(quite a transition from our peaceful life aboard the boat--but great fun)
Secondly--I wanted to tell about the really cool experience we had after we left the boat last Thursday, driving to Panama City to catch the plane the next day for Colorado.
As Destin is the next stop on "our" journey (more about the "our" later) we decided to stop in Destin on our way through to check out the tricky entry into the cove where "we" plan to anchor (more about the "we" later) on our way down the coast. After we parked the car and were walking along the pier in the direction of the harbor master's office (I wanted to talk with him/her about the entry to the cove) we came across a familiar looking catamaran tied up at the dock--sure enough it was our friends and mentors, Rusty and Linda Sitton of :Sittononthebeach blog site in the links on the left. They left Kemah about two weeks after me but have not been held up quite as much by the weather. They had passed us up over night, having sailed straight through off shore from Biloxi. They were parked in Destin for Christmas and to wait out a bad weather front moving in on Christmas day. We had lunch together and then drove them down the road to the grocery store for some provisioning and to refill a propane bottle. It was really neat to bump into them this way--and how coincidental. We had a very helpful chat with them about the area and the options of continuing on down the coast---more reinforcement for Diane (Linda is not as experienced a sailor as Diane nor as involved in the boat handling part of cruising but is vastly more experienced in the cruising part having done this same trip last year. She was able to discuss Diane's (and her) fears and share emotions and experiences in a very positive and helpful way.)----Which brings me to the "our" and "we" thing-----Diane is going to continue on with me and continue to fight her fears through experience. Actually, she had made this decision before we ran into the Sittons but talking with Linda just served to reinforce her decision. She still has trouble with the idea of sailing through the nights off shore and we will address that by gathering crew to help with those legs. Needless to say, I am ecstatic with her decision and the knowledge that she will be with me to experience the beauty of the moments ahead. Hopefully, with good planning we can minimize the difficulties.
Sooooo--at this point we are planning to sail off shore down to Destin and anchor for a day or two in the cove outside the bridge that we can't get under--then down the coast to Panama City and Port St Joe and then the ICW from St Joe to Appalachacola before heading across on the first over night to Tarpon Springs and warmer weather and bluer water along the Florida Peninsula. Curiously, even though I've already come over 500 miles , have crossed through or into 5 states and spent almost three weeks on the boat I won't feel like we're really into this journey until I get to the peninsula area --Tarpon Springs/Clearwater/Tampa and points south.
But for now--enjoying family and sleeping in a real bed and letting the water run when I brush my teeth or shower. Life is Good!!!
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Flawda----Finally!!!
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Roll Tide
One of the things we learned from the Rachel's gang is that our mast is too tall (50 feet plus antennae and other assorted devices) to get under some of the bridges in the Destin, Ft Walton Beach, Panama city area of the Florida section of the ICW (I'll be checking the charts closely over the holidays). The current thought is to go off shore out of Pensacola and sail either to Appalach... or on to Clearwater depending on conditions. Lot's of unknowns but still exciting. After our fabulous crossing of Mobile Bay we are (I am) filled with confidence and raring to go.
It is very hard for me to describe the joy and excitement that I am experiencing even in the face of the rather inclement weather that we've had to date. I know it only gets better from here but, once again, have to express my disappointment that my best friend won't be with me to enjoy it all. We've talked at length about her decision and how that "looks" for the immediate future. We've decided that she will join me as often as possible for the more "settled" parts of the trip----yeah, yeah, yeah---I have to do all the hard work---- We are both very "cool" with the plan and rumors of our impending divorce are greatly exaggerated.
Alabamy Bound
It was about 30 degrees when we pulled out, but we were dressed for it --in triple layers--. The only things really cold were my fingers. The river was a bit tricky in the dark but we made it without incident by paying very close attention to our GPS chartplotter while Diane simultaneously watched our laptop GPS program--Seaclear--. (Down below where it was warm) Between the two visual displays plus the radar display we had very little difficulty making it down the river the 8 miles back to the sound (Seaclear is a very cooool deal. By adding a USB connected GPS antenna to the laptop and downloading the FREE Seaclear software and over 400 NOAA navigation charts we are able to see our boat superimposed on the actual navigation chart published by NOAA and aproved by the Coast Guard for navigation. The GPS chartplotter is excellent but it is a picture of our vessel superimposed over a sketch, just like the one in your car, of the area--not the actual charts) Between the two "pictures" we have great confidence in our navigation. It's amazing how accurate this stuff is. Just in case this fails I have two other less sophisticated GPS devices on board in addition to my Droid phone which has built in navigation---As I mentioned some time back---if I get lost it's only because I'm a complete idiot or the world, as we know it, has changed.
Once back in the Sound we were met with clear skies, light wind from the east, and flat water. But, as we entered back into the ICW and turned eastward again the winds began to pick up and move around to the south. So we put the jib out and motorsailed along at 6+ kts.
We had been warned by the Rachel's gang of two things--with the wind out of the south we could expect some pretty big rollers building on our starboard beam as we passed through the gap between Petit Bois and Dauphin Islands; and--Mobile Bay can be a b....... on a windy day, especially if the wind is out of the north. We were indeed met by some pretty uncomfortable rollers as expected but they subsided as we sailed into the lea of Dauphin Island. Also, the wind, by this time had shifted around to the west by the time we got to Dauphin and we had a fabulous sail to the east end of the Island.
Not knowing what kind of conditions to anticipate once in Mobile Bay we reefed the jib (reduced its size by about 1/2 by rolling it up) --as it turned out, a wise move. The conditions were a bit rougher in the Bay although we had the protection of Dauphin Island to windward for a while. Still we sailed on cautiously in the face of this body of water's reputation for roughness. BUT, after it appeared that conditions would remain steady--wind out of the west at 20 to 22 kts and the seas following us we turned off the engine, let out the sail and sailed across at 7+ knots--almost maximum hull speed. We made it across the 23 miles in record tiome and reached the pretty and protected channel of Orange Beach Alabama at around 2:30 PM (We left at 5:30 anticipating an all day sucker)---but were elated with our progress. It was, all in all, a great day---great sailing, decently cool temps and friendly seas--what more could one ask---I think we had the perfect conditions to cross Mobile Bay. Life is Good!!!!!!!!!!!
Monday, December 13, 2010
Ol' Man Winter Strikes Again
It's Monday the 13th and we are comfortably tucked in at a floating dock at the River City Harbor Marina in downtown Moss Point, Miss. This marina is about 8 miles up the Pascagoula River from its mouth at the Pascagoula Ship Channel. We decided to come all the way up here to get as much protection as possible from this new, raging cold front that has slowed us down once again. It has been bitterly cold and incredibly windy since we got here from Gulfport Saturday evening
Friday, December 10, 2010
Underway Again
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Still in New Orleans
We have enjoyed our 3 day interlude in NO immensely. I've already mentioned the fabulous dinner we had the other night. Today we did something a bit different---went to an 11:15 matinee movie (Unstoppable) and after gathering ourselves and walking around the mall to relieve the tension from that movie, we headed downtown to the Quarter for a late lunch at Muriel's on Jackson Square--fantastic. We both had one of their signture Bloody Mary's, a cup of the best seafood gumbo I've ever tasted and I had a stuffed squash dish-- merliton squash stuffed with shrimp and andouille sausage in a roasted creole tomato sauce--Ummmmmmm. Diane had a mixed green salad with tenderloin---we'll have the second half for dinner tonight (Aren't we eating sensibly??)
Yesterday I was doing some work on the boat and got in a conversation with a guy working on a sportfishing boat a couple of slips down. Turns out he is Russell Colemar, the boat mechanic that has been helping "The Kids" with some of their engine problems. A good guy to know--he works all up and down the Mississippi Sound area--has tool box will travel---You never know when you're going to need someone like him and its good to know he would be available to help all across this next stretch of water that we'll be navigating. He spoke quite highly of "The Kids" and even acknowledged to me that he had referred to the kids as "The Kids"---and he's not nearly as old as I. So---Kids----you are"The Kids"---officially and affectionately.
It's going to be a cold night tonight but yesterday I went to Home depot and bought 150 feet of outdoor extension cord so even though we don't have "shore power" we can plug into a standard 120 outlet up by the office and run the cord to the boat where I have it plugged into a space heater that I keep on the boat for just such occasions. It will run off one of my generators also and that's what we'll do when we anchor tomorrow night--but as long as we don't have to run the generator to get 120 power I'll take advantage of it.
So, here's hoping for some warmer weather soon and some winds that will favor our eastward journey.
Every where we go we see the Christmas season unfolding in sight and sound and its a bit hard for us in that we are so far removed from the traditional celebration of the season as almost all thoughts are directed toward this journey. We do so look forward to our trip to see our kids and Grandkids and other family in Colorado. We will leave the boat in Panama City, Florida and fly (through Houston) to Colorado Springs to be with Kris and Paul and little Anna, Asher and Elli for Christmas and then on to Diane's brother's place in Vail for a few days of skiing and family fun. Really looking forward to seeing everybody and finally celebrating the season. Hey!! As long as its this cold here we might as well be in the mountains.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Houma to New Orleans---At Last
It was quite cold and not too windy when we left the Houma Town Dock at 0620. We stopped to fuel up about three miles down the ICW. After waking up Rudy at the Talen's fuel dock we took on 16 gallons of diesel in preparation for a long day. I had already added 5 gallons from one of the 5 gal. jerry cans we were carrying, in Morgan City, as there was no place to fuel up there or any where between MC and Houma----go figure---one of the busiest oil industry, industrial, commercial areas in the US and no where to buy diesel---refined oil.
The farther we went the more we felt it was a possibility that we could make it to NO a day ahead of schedule. We motored through numerous areas of incredible boat traffic associated with the off shore production facilities---barges, work boats, rigs, boat manufacturing and maintenance yards. And then there were many areas of very impressive natural beauty.
When we arrived at the intersection with the Barataria Waterway (where we had originally planned to turn south and head to a marina for the night) we made our final decision to push on. We grew more excited the closer we got to NO and finally spotted the skyline of the city in early afternoon.
We arived at the Harvey Lock at 3:30 PM. This is a lock, on the Harvey Canal that leads right into the Mississippi River. We were directed directly into the lock and tied up there along with only one "Light Boat" ( a tug without a barge load). The water difference was only about a foot and a half and took no time at all. When the north gate opened we were into the river across from downtown New Orleans. WOW!!! There was only a 1 1/2 knot current flowing downstream but the winds had come up and there was a slight chop. We had 5 miles to go until we exited the river on the north side (the city side) and we were motoring along peacefully and excited when a large tug pulled up next to us and hailed us on the loud hailer and told us we needed to monitor Channel 67 (on our VHF radio)--"traffic" was trying to get ahold of us on that channel. ( Up to this point channel 13 was the channel of choice for traffic on the ICW with contact with bridges on the same channel and channel 14 for locks) The cruising guide we had been following told me to contact "traffic control" on 67 once we exited the Harvey Lock and I had tried several times, without success, to raise them on that channel. I gave up and went back to channel 13. Unbeknownst to me they montor ch 12 in addition to 67 in the river--no longer channel 13---I was monitoring neither, but on the urging of the tug I turned my radios to those two channels. It seems they---1/2 the river traffic ---were trying to communicate to me to get to the city (port) side of the river to get out of the way of an oncoming, very large, tanker. I did!!
Soon we entered ino the staging area for the industrial canal lock that would take us to the channel that would lead to our marina. After waiting for 2 tows and a light boat to exit coming the other way we entered the lock by ourselves. This time there was about a 3 foot water drop. It was only about 4:30 at this time--plenty of time and daylight to get to the marina---Right after the lock was a highway bridge that we hailed and asked to raise so we could pass under--it did and we did. Then about 1/2 mile up the channel was another highway lift bridge that we needeed to raise for us to get under. "Bridge to sailboat----My bridge is stuck and it won't go up, and it won't go down" is what we heard over the radio. Unbelievable---we were within a mile of the marina and we encounter our first serious impediment. We started looking around for a good place to anchor--possibly for the night. Luckily, we were the only boat in this area between the 2 bridges. (There was no thought about reversing course as the only thing behind us was the river) I called the bridge tender back again and asked her if she thought they were going to be able to fix the bridge, and if so, how long it might take. She informed us that "maintenance" was on the way and would be there in a few minutes (remember--this is a Sunday night) and that they "WOULD" fix it. With these confident words we decided to not drop the hook and to just drift around a bit until the bridge was fixed, meanwhile picking out a good place to anchor for the night if her confidence was misplaced. Much to our elation the bridge started up about 20 minutes later. We still had three more bridges to remove from our path and darkness had decended. We trudged on slowly relying completely on our chartplotter and radar and after hailing the wrong bridges a couple of times and fearing that the operators had either gone to sleep or had shut down for the night we finally pulled into Seabrook Marina assisted by Ed of Ed and Mary Lee Shanen of Kentucky--they had sailed down the Mississippi and said it was miserable---. They're sailing their 40 ft Beneteau to their new home in FT Myers, Fla. We had a heck of time docking on the lea side of a dock as the wind had come back up considerably--truly appreciated his help.
The girls were on their way to join us. When we called and told them we were going all the way to NO on Sunday, they jumped in the car and headed our way--got in around 9:30---chatted--and to bed exhausted. What a day!! BUT--We're here and ready to begin the part of the trip we have really been looking forward to--If only the weather would cooperate. We are expecting front after front for a couple of weeks.
Monday, we had breakfast with Gene and MaryLou at a local soul food restaurant with the best grits I've ever tasted--"Old Gentiily Spicy Kitchen" After saying goodbye to Gene nad MaryLou we rented a car for a couple of days, did laundry, stocked up on groceries and went to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Theresa Dormer---Jacques Imo's"-- Incredibly good---The best restaurant I've ever eaten at in New Orleans. Back to the boat and to bed at 9. Tomorow a few boat chores, fill up on fuel and take another look at the weather. It looks like it is going to remain cold for quite a while longer and we need to decide whether to push on or to wait it out.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Morgan City to Houma
Made chili dogs for lunch----ummmmmm----- and arrived in Houma around 1:40. Right now we're sitting around watching a football game but will walk the 6 blocks to down town and look for some local cuisine for din-din. Then we'll probably watch the Okl Neb game and fall asleep during half-time. This life is grueling.
Houma appears to be quite industrial but not like Morgan City. The town looks interesting and am anxious to stroll it on Saturday night. The dock is nice but just off the ICW so we get a little bouncy whenever a large tow goes by. We passed some very large, new, very nice homes along the waterway on the way into town. The place appears to be quite prosperous.
Thursday, December 2, 2010
I apologize to all my dedicated followers (all three of them) for not having posted to this blog for the last several days but it has been really, really busy--and the times I have had to write I haven't had internet access (I'm still trying to figure out how to write a post and keep it and then paste it into the site when I have internet. Trust me--it ain't easy --for me)
I last wrote after we were ensconced in the Bowtie Marina, south of Lake Charles and next door to one of their sinful houses of gambling. We had a wonderfully warm night's sleep that night and awoke to frost covered decks the next morning and temps in the 30's. After threading our way out through low tide water down the winding bayou from the marina we returned to the Calcasieu River and ran downstream 9 miles to rejoin the ICW. Shortly after turning back to the east on the waterway we came upon our first lock--the Calcasieu Locks. After a brief wait for a tow ahead of us ( a "tow" is a tug boat type vessel pushing any number of combinations of barges---1, 2, 0r 3 long --single or double wide---HUGE---)to exit the lock we entered. We never stopped--by the time we transited the length of the lock, the west gate had been opened and the water came rushing at us. We just kept going and exited the east side--only to be met by a pontoon bridge that was closed across the waterway. It soon opened and we passed through and continued on our way to our next stopping place for the night--an anchorage on the Mermenteau River , about 2 miles up the river above the ICW----=a beautiful anchorage in an oxbow off to the east of the main channel of the river. The only problem---I ran us aground in 4 feet of water--in soft mud--trying to get to the anchorage---Oh well--Dave got us out quite skillfully (one of many learning moments on this trip--Dave is truly a knowledgeable and skillfull (and clever) (AND REPUBLICAN) captain. I felt like I wanted to stay at this anchorage a couple of nights, it was so beautiful.
The next morning we rose early and returned to the ICW where we were met with a thick mist (fog) up to about 20 feet but in combination with the rising sun in our eyes we were blind and had to motor on relying on our chart plotter and radar. Fortunately the fog dissipated with the rising sun before we encounterd any traffic. Eventually we were met by a beautiful, sunny day that allowed us to relax and enjoy our trip to the Shell Morgan Landing in Intracoastal City --arriving there quite early--around 1:45 in the afternoon. After checking in we walked over to the Maxie Pearce Grocery, about three blocks away-- a fully stocked grocery, with some really nice steaks (which we had that night) booze--(I was out of Vodka) and a great deli from which we ordered "crabburgers and fries". This was Dave's disembarkation point as he had to return to Kemah for work. Gene Wallin arrived around 7:15 that night--just in time to share in the steak dinner.
Next morning we arose early again---0530---- and said goodbye to Dave. and Gene and I set off for Morgan City, Louisiana--about 60 miles away. Another beautiful and WARM day.
We had heard about a couple in a catamaran that had preceeded us by about two weeks who had been boarded by the Coast Guard and had to suffer the lengthy and humiliating inspection process at a place called Bayou Petite Anse. Well, we made it through there without seeing the Coasties and were patting ourselves on the back for having evaded them but about 2 hours later we looked in our rear view mirror and saw a Coast Guard Cutter--not one of their runabouts--a damn CUTTER--approaching from our rear. OK--so we weren't carrying contraband, drugs or illegal (excuse me--"undocumented" )aliens--but still--you get nervous---------They passed by without even a friendly wave.---I felt cheated--I wanted something to complain about---Big Brother--intrusive government, etc--They ignored us.
Arrived Morgan City around 1530. What an amazing place. It is an unbelievable (and literal) crossroads of the Gulf Coast commerce. An amazing amount of water traffic of all kinds---barges, crew boats, work boats, equipment boats---and then there was me--- a little 36 foot sailboat in the middle of the most important commerce in the US. It is so busy here they even have a system like air traffic control. Beginning at mile marker "one oh two" I had to check in on VHF channel 11 with "Berwick VTS" and advise them who I was, where I was and where I was going. Then they asked me to report back at each of several checkpoints coming into Morgan City. Tomorrow as we head out to Houma we will check back in with them and they will monitor us until we are well away from the morgan City area--amazing.
So, here we are parked against a creosote bulkhead next to a vehicular bridge and a railroad bridge--very noisy---in downtown Morgan City. Shortly after we arrived and while we were enjoying another of Peppi"s(sp) Bloody Mary's a trawler--" Aquaholic" --pulled in behind us. They're from our marina in Kemah but they're headed the opposite way--they're coming back from the Keys (tried to make us envious until I told them I was on my way to the Bahamas for 6 months) ---Zing!!!
So here I am, sitting in the cockpit typing this update--in Morgan City, LA--Whodathunk????
The pics below are of Shell Morgan--a fueling stop and the marina where we stopped last night--not Morgan City. I'll try to remember to get some shots of MC tomorrow to see if I can impart a taste of this incredible place.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Taylor Lake to Lake Charles
Day two was uneventful and we arrived at the Bowtie Marina at around 1630. Temps were in the 40's all day and the winds, very brisk, gusting to the 30's all day long. Here's some pics along the way--most exciting the Ellender Lift Bridge pictured here. You have to estimate your arrival time and call ahead 4 hours to arrange for an attendant to leave the Dunkin' Donuts and get to the bridge to raise it. Fortunately we guessed right and only had about a 1/2 hour wait.